Frequently Asked Questions

A:The National Air Duct Cleaners Association (NADCA) does not endorse one kind of equipment (truck-mounted or portable vacuum machines) over another. Truck mounted equipment is generally more powerful than portable equipment. However, portable equipment can be brought directly into your home, allowing the vacuum source to be located closer to the ductwork. Both types will clean to the NADCA standard. All vacuum units should be attached to a collection device for safe containment prior to disposal. Any vacuum collection device which exhausts indoors must have a HEPA filter. American Mechanical, Incorporated uses the ROTOBRUSH Air Duct Cleaning system of high pressure vacuum and brushes to remove the accumulated debris from your air duct system and biocides to inhibit the growth of bacteria once the system has been cleaned. Research by the EPA has shown that air duct cleaning may allow your HVAC system to operate more efficiently by removing debris from sensitive mechanical components, giving your system a longer life expectancy and will generally operate more effectively than a dirty duct system.

A:With the constantly rising cost of energy, we all try to save energy in any way we can. A good rule of thumb is to check the air filters monthly and change them when they are dirty. The Department of Energy reports that changing your air filters can improve the efficiency of your HVAC equipment by 5% to 15%. The frequency depends upon several factors such as how many people live in the home, pets and the area where you live (highly polluted areas and areas of construction). While it may seem like a short answer, it all depends on the living condition in your home, the type of filters used, and how often and how hard your HVAC system has to work to maintain the comfort inside your home. During unusually hot or cold weather, you may need to check your filters more often.

A:A heat pump is part of a central heating and cooling system, uses the outside air to heat a home in the winter and cool a home in the summer. Technically, a heat pump is a mechanical-compression cycle refrigeration system that can be reversed to either heat or cool your home. Installation of this type of system typically consists of two parts: an indoor unit called an air handler and an outdoor unit similar to a central air conditioner, but is referred to as a heat pump. A compressor circulates refrigerant that absorbs and releases heat as it travels between the indoor and outdoor units. 

A:Heat pumps are best for moderate climates like we experience here in Hampton Roads. American Mechanical, Incorporated is a TRANE Comfort Specialist, and as a year round solution for your home comfort a heat pump can become a component of your matched system. Call American Mechanical today an request one of our HVAC Solutions Specialist for a no cost in home consultation for your new heat pump system!

A:A furnace is a part of the heating system in which the combustion of fossil fuel and transfer of heat occurs. Furnaces can be fueled by either natural gas or oil. The oil furnace is the heating component in some systems in colder climates. It converts oil to heat. Oil is pumped into the furnace where it is turned into a mist, sprayed through the blast tube and ignited. 

A:Air heating and cooling systems rely on forced air. Blowers motors provide air movement through the system to the desired location. The blower motor consists of an electric motor and a fan. Residential blower motors are used to circulate conditioned air (whether heated or cooled) from a furnace or cooling system throughout the home. The fan forces the air through ducting and vents.

A:Heat exchangers perform a vital part of your furnace. The function of the heat exchanger is to bring warm air from your furnace. These chambers are where hot combustion gases go after produced by the burner. These gases transfer heat to the walls of the heat exchanger. Venting pipes remove the cooled exhaust from the gas, while fans funnel air through and around the heat exchanger to remove the heat from the walls. Without a heat exchanger, the gas jets do not get into the air and do not heat up giving you warm air or room temperature coming through the vents. 

A:The evaporator coil works with the indoor unit, functioning with the air conditioner or heat pump to cool and condition the indoor air that flows over it by drawing out heat and moisture. It is the unsung hero of any home heating or cooling system as its job is to transfer heat. It may be installed with your furnace or as part of the air handler. Inside the coil, the refrigerant evaporates as it absorbs heat from the indoor air that passes over it. The evaporator coil essentially serves as a :heat exchanger” working in conjunction with your heating system in the winter and your cooling system in the summer. A dirty indoor coil lowers the efficiency of the total system and must be cleaned regularly. Indoor coils are often dirty because they are difficult to access. A clean evaporator coil will give you better performance and cleaner air inside of your home! Call American Mechanical, Incorporated for more information for our Home Care Agreement!

A:This is a good question! Packaged systems are all-in-one solutions, with most of the components for heating and/or cooling housed in a single cabinet. These systems are popular in certain regions, where construction techniques favor a single cabinet system rather than a split system, which has both an indoor and an indoor unit. Typically, packaged units are installed outdoors at ground level, in a crawl space, or they may be installed on the roof for horizontal or down-flow designs. Available in the same configurations, and utilizing the same components as split systems, packaged units also offer a variety of efficiency options. Unlike split systems, in a packaged system, most components are in one cabinet. According to your needs, you can select from the many types of packaged systems available: Packaged air conditioner – In parts of the country where the weather tends to be warmer, a packaged unit is the perfect solution. Higher efficiency units are also available that allow better humidity control. 

A:Central heating and cooling systems are separate things but they are matched to work together! The most common central cooling system is a split system and includes an outdoor cabinet containing a condenser coil and compressor, and an indoor evaporator coil, which is usually installed in conjunction with your furnace or air handler. The compressor pumps a chemical called refrigerant through the system. Once warm air inside your home blows across the indoor evaporator coil, its heat energy transfers to the refrigerant inside the coil. That transfer, in turn, “cools” the air. The refrigerant is pumped back to the compressor when the cycle begins again. The heat absorbed by the refrigerant is moved outside your home while cooled air is blown inside. Moisture that contributes to humidity is also condensed out of the air. You cooling system is usually combined with your central heating system because they share the same duct work for distributing conditioned air throughout your home. The central heating systems have a primary heating appliance (such as a furnace) typically located in your basement or garage. All furnaces consist of mainly four main components; a furnace to deliver and burn fuel, heat exchangers, a blower and a flue (that acts as an exhaust for gaseous by-products. Depending upon the situation, region and home needs, you can choose from heating systems which run on either gas or oil as fuel or as a hybrid packaged system that utilizes both types of fuel. Combustion gases are generated by the burners in your furnace and passed through a heat exchanger. Air from your home blows across the heat exchanger to be warmed. It is then blown through a system of duct work to be distributed throughout your home. During warm seasons your heating system works with your central air conditioning. Air is cooled as it is blown over the air conditioning units cooling coil, often it is attached to the air circulating fan of the furnace, and then it is sent through the same air ducts throughout your home.

A:No, it will not and the reason is because the system control boards and the blower motor operate on electricity. The solution is to consider installing a whole house generator which will start once electricity is lost.

A:Matched systems are a lot like a pair of shoes! A “matched system” takes a more holistic view of answering your comfort needs and provides energy savings. By combining components that are made separately, but designed to work together, you can create a more efficient ideal system for the comfort of your family. Different houses have different needs. You can choose from many components to create the right system specifically matched for you. A matched system can be composed of an air conditioner or furnace, a heat pump and a furnace, a heat pump and an air handler, an air conditioner and air handler or as an all-in-one packaged unit. The air conditioner is suited to the North and some Southern regions. The heat pump and furnace system is a good choice for the Southern regions. The heat pump and air handler system is ideal for the Hampton Roads area! The air conditioner and air handler system an option for some South, Southwest and California regions.

A:Ductless systems connect an outdoor unit with an indoor unit to heat and/or cool the specific zone of a home and do not require any duct work to operate. Installing a ductless system is not only easy, but it allows for flexibility in where you deliver heating and cooling in your home. No ductwork is needed! An outdoor unit Is placed outside your home-often at ground level, but not always- and is connected to an indoor unit by small cables and a refrigerant line through a hole in the wall. The interior unit is typically mounted high on the wall of the room and can be pre-set to run automatically or be adjusted by remote control. The mini-split system controls one room or zone by connecting one outdoor unit to one indoor unit. A multi-split ductless system can connect to up to five indoor units-depending on the indoor and outdoor model letting you control the heating and cooling in several areas of your home or rooms independent of each other. A ductless system is a great solution for homes without a central heating/cooling system or when a room is added onto a home or in the attic that has been converted into a living space. A ductless system can provide efficient heating and cooling at a lower operational cost.

A:Your duct system is at the center of your heating and cooling system! If your duct work is sized incorrectly, you may be wasting a lot of money as this is the I-95 for airflow throughout your home. There are three parts to a duct system. The first section is called a return and provides a path for air to flow from individual areas to the inlet of the furnace or air handler. This is where the air is cleaned and fresh air is taken in. The air then passes along to the air handler where the heat is added or removed to maintain the comfort inside your home. The conditioned air enters the supply section of the system to deliver conditioned air to individual areas inside the home. The two types of supply systems are extended plenum (consists of a supply air plenum which is connected to the outlet of the equipment) and central plenum (where all of the branch ducts start). The main supply ducts are attached to the extended plenum and run through the extent of the home. The size of the main supply ducts is reduced as necessary to maintain good air flow. Branch ducts are attached to the main duct and carries the conditioned air to the registers. If you notice noises such as popping or whistling the system may be working harder than normal to maintain the comfort of your home! You may also notice higher energy bills as a result of this problem. Homeowners should make sure the duct system is properly sealed and insulated.

A:The badge lets you as the homeowner know you’re working with an independent TRANE dealer of the highest standing. Those who display the badge are committed to the BEST in every aspect of their business! From the installation of the equipment, service of the equipment and customer satisfaction they have exhibited leadership and technician training to make sure the customer is kept foremost in their everyday activities.

Many also have NATE (North American Technician Excellence) certified technicians. Not every dealer qualifies as a TRANE Comfort Specialist dealer! Each year, independent dealers qualify for TRANE Comfort Specialist status by meeting TRANE’s stringent standards and demonstrating a commitment to customer satisfaction and continuing education. By looking for the badge of the TRANE Comfort Specialist dealer, you can rest assured you’ll be working with a proven dealer…the BEST of the BEST!

A:The equipment that is installed must be registered within 90 days of installation. Registration can be completed wither online or by telephone. The duration of the warranty for the equipment such as the heat pump, air handler, thermostat and accessories is ten years , in most cases. The warranty duration does vary somewhat depending upon the model number and nomenclature of the equipment. American Mechanical, Incorporated will be responsible for registering the warranty registration on both the TRANE site and the Comfortsite (both are subsidiaries of Ingersol-Rand). Your registration warranty information will be mailed to you in most cases within 24 hours after installation of the equipment. As stated, the warranty covers: 

A:Yes! Your transferrable warranty will help you sell your home. You may transfer your warranty to the new homeowner within 90 days following the sale of your home. You will have the opportunity of purchasing for a nominal cost a “Transfer Option” which will allow the balance of your warranty period to be transferred to a subsequent homeowner.

A:It is all related to how metal stresses and flexes when exposed to heating and cooling! This due to contraction and expansion of the metal components of the heat exchanger. Eventually, over a period of use (possibly 20 years or so), these actions may cause a crack or hole to form in the heat exchanger! These cracks may appear as a hairline crack or be more visible but with lack of maintenance or the inability to know what to look for, these cracks will eventually become larger and create the health-hazardous condition. The key is to perform routine maintenance on your system or call a professional to ensure your system is operating correctly!

A:Nothing! You can make sure you maintain the system on a periodic basis to “kill the monster while it is little”. Dirty filters, closed off vent openings and furniture blocking the vents may help. Proper air flow through the vents and clean air filters will go a long way to improve the breathing air quality in your home and slow down the process of a faulty heat exchanger. The proper combustion of gases inside the furnace is also very important because when the burners are not firing as designed, this will cause the unit to operate at a lower efficiency than the unit is designed to work. The most important thing (and most common in furnaces) is if not operated for a period of time, condensation accumulates inside the components and cause them to rust! CALL AMERICAN MECHANICAL TODAY FOR A FREE FURNACE INSPECTION! It could literally save your life.

A:This is a good question and the answer is a short one! Yes. It is time to consider an electrical panel replacement! FEDERAL PACIFIC ELECTRIC PANELS COULD FAIL! Federal Pacific Electric Company was one of the most common manufacturers of circuit breaker panels in the United States from the 1950s to the 1980s. Millions of their panels were installed in home across our country. As time passed, electricians and home inspectors often found these panels failed to provide proper protection to homeowners and their families. Experts now say that these panels can appear to work fine for years, but after one overcurrent or short circuit, they can overheat and become fire hazards! When a breaker fails to trip, an extreme amount of power from the outside electrical supply surges into a home’s panel and circuits. Once that happens, it cannot be stopped or shut off manually.

Electricity will burn until it runs out of fuel or the wires melt. The panel could overheat and catch fire, causing serious harm to a home and its occupants. When they do malfunction, a disaster could occur. These Federal Pacific brand electrical panels have been outlawed for these reasons. With the upcoming hurricane season when homes often lose power, homeowners should check the brand of their electrical panel and may consider an electrical panel upgrade if these unsatisfactory panels are now installed. Call American Mechanical for more information and to schedule a no cost in home consultation for an electrical panel upgrade today!

A:This is a good question! The answer is a short one, however. The pipes must be thawed out before we can do anything! If you have pipes that are vulnerable to freezing, allow a small trickle of water to run overnight (or during the day) to prevent the pipes from freezing. The cost of the extra water is low compared to the cost to repair a broken pipe. Open cabinet doors to expose pipes to warmer room temperatures to help keep them from freezing. Once the pipes freeze, shut off the water immediately (know the location of the shut off valve in advance of the cold weather). Don’t attempt to thaw frozen pipes unless the water is shut off! Freezing can often cause unseen cracks in pipes or joints. Apply heat to the frozen pipe by warming the air around it, or by applying heat directly to a pipe. You can use a hair dryer, space heater or hot water. Once the pipes have thawed turn the water back on slowly and check for cracks or leaks. If pipes inside the home are frozen, call American Mechanical, Incorporated for a service request.

A:It is a good idea to drain your water heater. Sediment is a solid material that is not dissolved in the water. This could be grit from a well, or any of the foreign materials that make their way into the municipal water mains. Many municipal water systems are not filtered so there is always a small amount of “stuff” moving through the piping. This “stuff” settles to the bottom of the tank. If your plumbing inside the house connects to the city main, and the city has recently cleared the main drain lines, you may have an increase in the amount of sediment inside your water heater!

Small accumulations of sediment are not a serious problem. However, the depth of the sediment can interfere with the operation of the drain valve, increase the amount of dissolved minerals in the hot water, and may if neglected affect the efficiency of the lower heating element. Plus, the chlorine in the water has an effect on the sediment, and may produce unwanted and possibly unhealthy chemical compounds. All the more reason to decrease the amount of sediment that settles in the bottom of the water heater.

A:Rather than storing the hot water in a tank, a tankless hot water heater heats water on demand. This can contribute to considerable energy savings for you! Manufacturing companies of tankless water heaters recommend the unit be flushed annually in order to eliminate the buildup of calcium, minerals, and other "junk" within the unit. This should be completed even more frequently if you have “hard” water. Some of the more advanced units will indicate when the unit is in need of flushing. You can flush out a tankless hot water heater in about an hour of your time. Here are the procedures to follow:

Step 1 - Turn off the circuit for your water heater at the breaker panel. If the water heater uses a gas heater, rotate the gas cutoff counterclockwise to turn the gas off to the unit.

Step 2 - Use a screwdriver to remove the cover plate of the water heater unit, allowing you to have access to the wiring within the unit. Hold the tip of a non-contact electrical tester against the wiring leading into the terminals. If the tester light turns on, continue turning off the breakers or the main circuit breaker to the house until testing of all wires show that no power in accessing the system. Replace the cover plate.

Step 3 - Locate and turn off the water supply valve that supplies cold water to the water heater. Turn off the main hot-water valve that sends hot water to the local fixture or the multiple fixtures inside the house.

Step 4 - Connect one end of a six-foot garden hose to the outlet of a pond pump or sump pump, then connect the other end of the hose to the cold water isolation valve. Connect a second garden hose to the hot water isolation valve. Tighten the garden hose couplers with an adjustable wrench.

Step 5 - Place the pump and the open end of the second hose into a five gallon bucket or receptacle. Fill the receptacle with five gallons of fresh, clean white vinegar.

A:Toilets are one of the most common sources of wasting water inside the home! This water is usually unnoticed because the leaks are often silent and not visible. Approximately 20% to 35% of residential toilets leak to some degree! This leakage can be revealed when the valve makes a hissing noise or a gurgling sound when the toilet is not in use.

To start with, remove the tank lid and inspect the flush parts of the commode. The water level inside the tank should not reach higher than one inch below the top of the overflow tube. If the water level is to the top of the overflow tube, the water is seeping down the tube and out the drain! This may be caused by the water level being adjusted too high, the float is damaged and is not shutting off the refill valve or the refill valve (ball-cock assembly) is worn out and should be replaced.

 To check for leakage, place a couple of drops of food coloring or dye into the tank water. Wait 15 minutes and if the color seeps into the commode, you may have a problem. This is usually caused by a defective flapper valve not creating a watertight seal. The chain may not be working correctly and prevent the flapper to not seat correctly inside the valve seat. Other reasons may be the flapper is worn out or warped. A worn out flapper valve is the most common reason this occurs. This can be fixed easily!

Number 1 – Shut off the water supply to the toilet and flush the toilet to remove most of the water from inside the tank.

Number 2 - Remove the chain from the flapper to the flush valve and remove the flapper valve by either sliding the flapper up and over the overflow tube. You may need to remove the pins of the flush valve. Inspect the flapper for signs of deterioration or warping.

Number 3 - Install the new flapper valve by sliding the valve over the overflow tube and into the valve seat. Make sure the new valve is fully seated on the flush valve opening. You may need to trim the flapper to make sure the fit is correct and seated properly.

Number 4 - Attach the chain to the flush valve.

Number 5 – Turn the water supply back on and flush the commode to ensure the flapper valve is operating correctly!

Number 6 – Pat yourself on the back for a job well done! You just saved money by having the courage to do it yourself.

A:Good question! Leaks from pipes, plumbing fixtures and fittings are a significant source of water waste for many homeowners. The typical home can lose up to 2,000 to 20,000 gallons of water per year due to leaks! Some leaks are obvious, such as from a dripping faucet, leaking water heaters or a commode that is not operating correctly. Unfortunately, many leaks go undetected for years because the leak is not in a visible location. If your water bills are increased and the usage level in your home is relatively stable, you may very well have a water leak in a crawl space or at the water meter.

Call an experienced plumbing technician to do an inspection on your home as part of our Home Care Agreement to be sure. Larger leaks or a combination of small leaks can often be detected by your water meter. Using your water meter you can perform a simple leak check with a few easy steps, as follows:

Number 1 – Ensure all water is turned off inside and outside of the home. This is a good exercise so that you will know the location of the valves needed to cut off the water in case of an emergency! This test must be completed when no automatic equipment is operating such as the dishwasher and washing machines.

Number 2 – Record the reading of the water meter and wait 15 minutes and be sure that no water is used during that time inside or outside of the home.

Number 3 – Record the reading of the meter again. If the meter has recorded any water use during the test, it might be due to a leak somewhere in or outside of the home. This meter test only verifies that a leak is possible! It does not nor is it intended to locate the source of the leak. This requires investigation from a skilled technician and should not be delayed!

A:Stay calm. Faucet leaks are a very common occurrence in any home and usually simple to fix. A faucet that drips slowly (one drop every two seconds) will waste more than 1,000 gallons of water per year. The repairs needed to stop the leak depends on the type/style of faucet. There are basically four types of faucet found in most homes; the compression valve, ball valve, cartridge types and ceramic discs. Each type of faucet has unique methods of repair. If you can use tools or are used to making home repairs this will be a “snap” for you.

Number 1 – Ensure the water supply is turned off, from the handles over the sink to the valves under the sink that controls water coming in from the main water line.

Number 2 – Remove the decorative knob or insert from the faucet fixtures.

Number 3 – Locate the screw under the decorative knob and gently remove the screw with a flat head screwdriver. Be sure to cover the drain in the sink so that you do not lose that screw! If the screw has not been replaced in some time you may need to use WD-40 or some similar penetrating oil to take the faucet handle off of the stem.

Number 4 – Use the crescent wrench to loosen the packing nut. You will be able to locate and remove the stem at this point. Some stems will twist out or pop out of the assembly. Check parts for wear and tear.

Number 5 – Inspect the o-ring and washer inside the valve seat. This could be the cause of the leak! Replace the washer with a new washer and re-assemble the faucet in reverse of what it was removed. Make sure the washer is the correct fit before putting the faucet back together!

Number 6 – Turn the water on under the sink, check the water flow at the faucet and pat yourself on the back! You just saved money!